Looking, scanning, searching the horizon for what might be that approaching set.  A lump in the ocean moving quickly towards the land and I know what is in store.  I turn around and paddle, lining myself up 2 feet on the shoulder of the dry rock that creates the boil.  The wave slams the rock and I stand up, air dropping into what seems like death, all I can see is reef beneath me.  Land in the flats, and somehow hook my bottom turn and angle into the pocket of the hollow wave.  I see Quincy sitting on the shoulder, just outside of the barrel’s mouth pointing that bright yellow water housing directly at my face. I tuck under the lip and draw my line through a beautiful emerald green and electric blue tube.  Flying past Quincy, the lip closes tightly and I hold my chest as closely as I can towards my knees.  I push my head through the chandelier of the barrel, knowing this situation can go both ways - close out or a beautiful exit.  Before I know it the sun shines and the shoulder of the wave welcomes me as I make it through another amazing barrel at this secret surf spot.

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