The photos that follow the wave search story….just a few samples.

…more to come soon…

Ahh! It’s the coldest I have ever felt Hawaii, it’s rainy, and the ocean shows no sign of swell here in Hana.  2 days ago it was bombing, like shutting down everywhere, and then the next day it’s absolutely flat.  It was the craziest thing I have ever seen.  Oh well, pray for surf!

Play the audio file below

One of the largest swells to hit the southside of Maui in a year occured on Thursday, the 10th, 2008.  It was a large Northwest swell with a lot of west wrapping into the southern side of Kihei, Maui.  I knew the swell was going to be big so I drove out Wednesday night to spend the night at my friend, Quincy’s house (yes, Quincy Dein, the man behind the lens of most of my photos.) Woke up the next morning, in front of his house was bombing close outs and we knew it was going to be good.  We checked the local secret spot, but it had around 5 guys already out there, too many for us.  So we decided to drive up north, towards Honolua Bay.  We scored a really fun break up there (too territorial to name) and got some insane photos.  Then we checked Honolua.  Too inconsistent and packed house!  Surfed Ironwoods for a little while Quincy used the water housing, but didn’t get any good shots.  So we drove all the way back to the southside and checked the same secret spot as the one in the morning.  We ended up paddling out and surfing till it was pitch black.  It was insane.  The wave comes in from extremely deep water, hits a boiling shelf of reef, and jacks up and shacks down the line, then shoulders off for good cutback and carve sections, and then one last vertical turn section before dry reef.  It was an epic day.  We woke up the next day and checked two spots before ending up at the same exact spot as the night before.  We surfed from 7 till 12 and got amazing water shots, barrels and carves.  The shots will be posted soon, just wait!

Aloha,
Forrest

Taken by Quincy Dein - www.quincydein.com